November 20, 2024

One thing I forgot to note yesterday about our arrival here in Malta.

We got off the ferry and hailed an uber to get to the flat. I had been warned by our host that we needed to have the 3 blade UK adapter plug, not the 2 pin EU plug. I confirmed that we were going to a place influenced by UK colonization. What I forgot to remember, and became keenly aware of when the uber showed up: the driving is on the other side of the road!!! (Not the wrong side, but the other side!!!)

Lots of activity in front of us as we look out our 2nd story flat with balcony. Boats are going in many directions, and mostly seem to be for hire type tour boats. There is a frequently running ferry in front of us that goes to the main part of Valletta frequently.

The crane is lifting lots of stuff up about 8 stories to the building to our right. Scaffolding gear, concrete stuff. And of course there’s a small car that didn’t read the signs for the street closure today. After a while a tow truck appears and there’s lots of activity to put the car on front end dollies and move it around for the tow truck to get access to it. Then of course it appears the owner shows up and the police do various things but eventually the owner drives the car away. Did he get a ticket? Who pays for the tow truck to sit for about an hour? Lots of official looking people, mostly talking on their phones.

It’s a lovely 72 degrees and we are washing all the clothes that we’ve been wearing in the cooler temperatures of Sicily. Will start walking around our embayment first and head to the bridge/isthmus connected island in front of us. Valletta is out to the left and behind it from our view point.

On arrival last night the uber driver went past the google location for the flat and dropped us about 3 minutes farther down the road. When we got out and got the mapping out a very nice women stopped to see if she could help. We told here where we were headed and she said #25 is farther down to the right. She’s at #50 and turned into her flat a few yards from the corner we got dropped at. She also said we should have no trouble finding a mini market for early provisions even though it was after 930pm. We learned we couldn’t get the elevator to work so lugged ourselves up to the 2nd floor, which is up 2 long flights.

I contacted our host about the elevator and have since learned we need to use the small key on the key ring. We did try that but maybe we didn’t do it just right and will try again.

Seems there’s a lot to explore here. Apparently if you take the ferry over to Valletta it drops you at the landing which is at the bottom of a steep climb up to the main part of the town. Our friend on the street recommended the bus as it takes you straight in. We’ll see what makes sense when the time comes.

We are staying in Sliema, across an embayment from Valletta. Our view is over this side of the harbor with lots of tourist boats moving about. There are various sized pleasure boats, and there’s a quick ferry across to Valletta for EU1.80 RT that runs every 30 minutes. There are also tour boats of all sizes going to the small islands to the north. We may do that after we walk around Valletta. We can see the famed dome up on the hill across the way. In the middle of the embayment is Manoel Island, connected by a road. There is water under the road so it truly is an island.

We went over to the island and walked along the marina side and learned it’s a dead end. We turned around and went to the other side. There’s a very large and active boat yard. Boats are everywhere!! On the outer end and on a hill is a large fort with extremely high block walls. At one point we could see the deep and wide moat. Access was closed so we explored around the edges. WE found some rocky paths to get to the end where there were sunbathers. As we continued around we saw more people and found a very easy way out. There were stairs and a road that came down the center of the island, alongside high fortress walls, to where we joined up with the road alongside the boat yard area.

We went into the boatyard as Thom was in search of a Maltese ensign/flag to take home. He found someone working on his boat who offered his flag and told Thom where to buy one. That was our next destination.

We found a fabulous marine store with beautiful hardware and boating gear. We could get what Thom wanted in any size. He picked the size we usually fly on our flagpole, about 3’x5’.

Off to lunch at this point, it was after 3, and we selected a restaurant on the recommended list provided by our host. It offered seafood and rabbit, that’s a traditional Maltese offering. As it was happy hour, we got 2 spritzes!!!

We then went to the mall!  The Marks and Spencer here is a very small shop with mostly gift like things. We found a Spar and got some stuff. The prices are very reasonable here.  I then found the electronics store and broke down to buy an HDMI cable. The tvs we’ve been encountering do not support access to web-based streaming platforms. At least here in Valletta there are English speaking broadcast cable channels but in Sicily there wasn’t much selection and nothing in English. I know it sounds ridiculous, but we eat our main meal out and have a light supper in and then watch a little tv until bedtime.  It’s an easy non-tiring routine.

   November 21, 2024

It’s our first day starting with on and off rain showers. Wind, rain, sun, pause, wind rain, repeat. We hope to get out at some point but the morning is slow and we’ll see how the day progresses.

Once it starts to clear we decide to take our chances. Turned out to be fine – cloudy and sunny, but mostly sunny.

We wanted to scope out the bus situation for the trip to the airport. We found the stop we want about 14 minutes from the flat. It takes 33 minutes and costs EU2.  I know we shouldn’t bother and just call Uber for EU15, but it feels more sustainable to take the bus!

We then boarded the next bus into Valletta, allowing the bus to do the climbing for us. We got dropped off at the large Triton fountain in front of the massive city gate and then turned left to a very nice garden area overlooking the embayment our flat is on. The entire city/town is getting ready for Christmas. There’s a large tree being decorated just inside the city gate. There are shop decorations and pretty trees as well as Christmas carols here and there.

I had prepared a custom walk on gpsmycity app and we started on our way. We needed to find a souvenir shop to find an embroidered patch of the flag of Malta for my backpack. I also hoped to find a jewelry store to get Maltese cross earrings.

We had a great walk and as we progressed along we ended up on the far side and in another nice garden overlooking the channel side that we came in on Tuesday night. Lo and behold 2 very large cruise ships. Now we understood why the extensive crowds on the main street and in the souvenir shops. It was about 5pm and one of them sounded its horn and it probably could be heard everywhere in town. Incredibly loud!! We saw it pull away, we walked to the outer end of the town, where Fort Elmo is. We saw the ship come along and take a sharp turn right to get out.

We then made our way back, souvenir patches and earrings in hand, and walked down the steep side to reach the Valletta-Sliema ferry. It took more time to load the passengers than to make the quick journey across.

   November 22, 2024

Today started with no plans. I at one point thought it might be fun to explore out in the other direction from our flat. Out to the left. We headed that way and periodically got stopped by dead ends or signage due to construction.

We wandered and wandered and saw some terrific apartment complexes overlooking the outer areas, out past the break waters. It was a beautiful day, sunny, but very windy. Saw a couple of people swimming in a large pool complex overlooking the water.

We kept going and going and sat for a little while here and there. We then wandered inward a bit and bumped into the Lidl. Got just a couple of things to get us through a big salad for dinner. Then we went on the hunt for a restaurant offering Maltese fare.

Thom spotted Ta Kris which he remembered as being recommended. It’s a small place in a narrow alley. We got seated, made our choices, and Thom ordered a starter of 3 dips with local bread. One was a thick blue cheese spread, other a garlicky salsa, and third a bean/garlic/parsley spread, similar to a hummus. It was all wonderful. The bread though, the traditional Maltese Ftira circular loaf, was exceptional. I have to learn how to make it. From some searching it seems to be a sour dough fermented loaf, shaped into a 12-inch circle and a bit flat. It has a crusty crust and an irregular holey crumb. Smeared with the spreads it was a wonderful appetizer!

For our mains we had a lamb dish and a rabbit dish, braised in a terrific red wine sauce. I’m not much of a potato person but the Maltese potatoes are very tasty!! The red wine was a Maltese Syrah-merlot by Fenici and paired perfectly. Lots of flavor!

We walked some more, in the direction of the flat and found we were only about 2 blocks away. I spotted a Gelateria and got 2 scoops of salted caramel. Probably won’t see it very often in London. 

Tomorrow will be a travel day, taking most of the day to get to London in the late afternoon. We’ll be in London, for Thanksgiving,  with family from Boston, until 3 Dec. Then back to DC!

Malta was a treat to visit! Maybe we’ll come back some day.